A Good Winter Coat

While December sees London blessed with a nominally pleasant climate, with the glint of sunshine bouncing off urban surfaces and a glittering Thames, the crisp temperament has been accentuated by temperatures hovering around 0°C. Despite these inclement conditions, the weather has provided a good example of why winter dressing is far easier than summer dressing, as long as one is endowed with appropriate clothing. As is often the case, one can always layer clothing or particular materials to fend off the cold, whereas after a certain stage there is only so much that a light linen shirt can do to keep oneself cool in the blazing month of July.
 
To misquote Jane Austen, it is a truth universally acknowledged that a person must be in need of a good winter coat. No matter how chic or mismatched one’s clothes are, all may be rescued by the presence of a stylish overcoat. This should marry form and function for a quintessential seasonal statement. As ever with menswear, much of these combinations emanate from the armed forces. For example, though decrying its naval roots on Dutch ships in the 1800s, the double-breasted peacoat is perfectly suited to everyday urban use due to its short shape allowing for a full range of movement. Its often navy wool construction lends itself well to keeping warm during those bracing sunrise walks to work, whilst its efficient design is smart without being overbearing. For those readers who enjoy a sprinkling of etymology, the name ‘peacoat’ derives from the Dutch word ‘pijakker’ describing the twilled blue cloth that was initially used in constructing the coat.
 
Though near-ubiquitous in the 21st century, the puffer jacket was pioneered following a particular chilly fishing trip undertaken by the American outdoorsman Eddie Bauer in 1936. After a close brush with hypothermia, Mr Bauer patented down-insulated garments, initially focusing on sleeping bags as well as jackets. For much of the 20th century, the puffer jacket remained the preserve of those intending on outdoors pursuit, including (though not limited to) skiing, hiking and mountaineering. However, the 1990s saw the puffer jacket cross over into the fashion mainstream, vastly increasing its popularity in urban environments and consequently spawning countless varieties. Today, the jacket has managed to maintain these twin heritages with versions ranging from Patagonia incarnations to items straight off the couture catwalks.
 
Yet it is surely the timeless wool overcoat that is the greatest embodiment of a ‘good winter coat’. Endowed with clean lines and classic notes, this is a true staple of the wardrobe. Despite its apparent formality, its status as the final layer for any outfit lends it a perhaps unexpected versatility. This classic garment gained traction in the late 18th century, as popularised by high society and military officers, before rising to greater prominence amongst dandies in the Regency era. Its transition to a coat beloved by all walks of society was complete when it was adopted as a key pillar of the skinhead look in the 1960s. Despite constant attempts at ‘reinventing’ the classic wool overcoat, the broad outlines have remained steadfast, perhaps in itself affirming the genuinely timeless qualities.
 
HM the King, frequently hailed as one of the best-dressed men in the world, has remained famously loyal to two coats, both of which are overcoats. His camel wool overcoat is a staple of Sandringham Christmas lunches and services, whilst his herringbone double-breasted number has been worn faithfully since 1986. If in no other sphere, there is plenty to be admired by this devotion to the value of a high-quality coat.
 
In essence, the requirements of a good winter coat are not dissimilar to the Vitruvian principles of good architecture. Vitruvius, writing in 30-20 BC, stated that the three key attributes of buildings were firmitas, utilitas, and venustas (‘strength’, ‘utility’, and ‘beauty’). These features are also reflected in the desire for form, function and aesthetic pleasure. It is surely the wool overcoat that fulfils these three requirements more effectively than any other coat, and it is for this very reason that it represents the closest ideal for a ‘good winter coat’.